Some things never change

Hail, Penang!

Author: George Bilainkin

Areca Reprints, Original Publishing 1932.

George Bilainkin was a multilingual, short tempered, prolific newspaper man of the now defunct Straits Echo in Penang. He was an Englishman who had arrived in Penang in 1929 after a stint in Jamaica. Conversant in English, French, German and many Slavic languages, Balainkin is also an astute observer of little things that strike a chord of humour even today.

During his short tour of duty in Penang which was cut short after a tiff with his bosses, he gave a short overview of his perception of the country, its people, the various ethnicities, the colonial masters, the local royal family, way of life here and the future that was to come. Even though, his thinking must mirror an educated man of the early 20th century, unfortunately our thinking and stereotyping of the various ethnic groups of the country at the present remain the same!

In this book, GB has managed to illustrate the behaviour of people around him. En route to Malaya on the ocean liner, he noticed that the people who were not used being served back home were the same people who had so much displeasure regarding the service and the food. They really showed their class (lack of, that is) by this.

The Englishman on tropical Penang had a lot to say about the weather and the way of life of the natives. Over and over, he speaks highly of the laborious Chinese who scored high marks to receive Queen's scholarships. Some of the stereotyping may not be music to the ears but, nevertheless, it appears like he had high esteem for the Chinese language and culture. He describes them trying to ape their colonial masters by painting themselves white and follow their social activities and mannerisms.

The working class Tamils are described as loud and contended with their traditional practices. Toddy drinking was a problem even then.
GB also describes the characteristics of his Malay subordinates who are deeply religious and are never seen in public without a fez (songkok). He had many dealings with Abdoolcader and Dr Ariff who were local leaders in Penang. Even in 1930s, they had a problem with a certain cigarette advertisement which decided to include a supposed image of Prophet Muhammad in its advertisement!

During his stay in Penang, GB had a meeting with Noel Coward, the famous playwright who made a stop over at Penang. A certain Russian scientist, Dr Serge Voronoff, who experimented with human rejuvenation with monkey glands, stopped in Penang E&O Hotel.

The English workers who were sent to Malaya did not paint a good image to the Commonwealth. They were often seen as skirt chasers, as European ladies were rare commodity in Penang. Many of them dined and drank on credit but never upheld the white man's code of honour.

GB gave a panoramic view about his visit to Pulau Jerejak, an island holding incurable lepers. He was one of the invited guests of officials to partake in the official consecration of a Hindu temple there. He later gives a whiteman's account of witnessing a fire-walking ceremony and skin piercing penance during Thaipusam.

He was quite puzzled with the concept of arranged marriage in the local Chinese community. His first Christmas in Malaya was in an estate in Kedah. He gives a descriptive account of his travel there by road chauffeured by his Sikh driver.

A trip to the Snake temple showed the place of worship to be sprawling with slithering reptiles of enormous quantity and types, unlike what is seen (or not seen) today. Sometimes you wonder if they keep rubber snakes today! They appear lifeless!

The last topic gave a different view of the role of the British in Malaya. They were not conquerers but rather a trustee for the Malay Rulers. In a turmoil filled country with fervent in-fighting, the British were there to be peacemaker and like a guardian, their job was to nurture young kids into adulthood. That is all. GB, even at that time, envisaged that one day, they had to leave when the natives are more aware and educated.

The Straits Echo's office in Beach Street, its signboard clearly visible on the left.