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What do people want, really, really want?

Dhal Lake, Srinagar. A few weeks before my planned cycling trip from Srinagar to Leh, Ladakh, unrest occurred in Jammu. Stone pelters went into action but were swiftly put under control by police. That did not stop any of my naysayer friends from forewarning me of the worst. Others quickly blurt that one needed about a week to acclimate to high-altitude  sports. We had a one-and-a-half-day acclimatisation before climbing the hills for  about a week. On top of that, we had acetazolamide to help in that aspect. The plan was to cycle from Srinagar to Leh (Khardunga, optional), covering about 500km and an elevation of over 7,200m in about 8 days. So it was Srinagar to  Sonamarg, Sonamarg to Drass, Drass to Kargil, Kargil to Budkharbu, Budkharbu to  Nurla, Narlu to Leh. Contrary to what I had heard, I did not feel hostility. The only semblance of possible unrest is the military presence throughout the journey. People were seen doing their daily chores. Construction was ev...